Key Broke Off in the Lock? Broken Key Extraction, Explained

Notice whether the lock was turned when the key snapped and how much of the blade is showing. If a piece sticks out far enough to grip, needle-nose pliers or tweezers can sometimes draw it straight out. Pull in line with the keyway without twisting, since bending the piece wedges it tighter.

If nothing is showing, or one gentle try doesn't move it, stop. The piece is held by the same pins that read your key, and prying at it is how a simple extraction becomes a lock replacement.

If the lock was partly turned when the key broke, leave it. A key, or a piece of one, can only come out of a pin tumbler lock when the plug (the part that turns) is back in its starting position, and a locksmith can return it there without forcing it.

• Don't use superglue. Glue on a stick or a spare key tends to bond to the pins or the inside of the lock, and a glued lock usually has to be replaced.
• Don't push the piece in with the other half, a pin or a small screwdriver. It just goes deeper.
• Don't keep trying to turn the lock with the stub or a tool. That bends pins and can jam the plug.
• Don't drill it. Drilling destroys the cylinder. It's a last resort for a professional, not a first step.

Broken key extractors are thin strips of hardened steel with a small hook or barbs at the tip. They slide into the keyway beside the piece, catch its cuts and draw it out. With the plug in its starting position, most pieces come out without taking the lock apart. A badly wedged piece, or one held by corrosion, may mean removing the cylinder from the door and taking it apart.

Then ask why the key broke. A snapped key is usually a symptom: a worn key, a stiff or corroded cylinder, or a door that's out of line.

A key snapping in a front door deadbolt often means you're locked out too, so the job is extraction, getting you inside, and a new key.

In Tampa, a common cause is a door swollen by summer humidity: the deadbolt drags against the strike plate, you lean on the key, and a worn key gives out. If your deadbolt only turns when you push or pull the door, the door or strike needs adjusting. Salt air plays a part too, especially near the bay: corroded cylinders get stiff, and stiff cylinders snap keys.

Garage entry doors, side doors and gate locks are no different. Our residential locksmith services cover broken key extraction, rekeying, lock changes and deadbolt upgrades.

Many drivers rarely use the key in their car door, because the remote does the work. Then the remote battery dies, the cylinder is stiff from disuse and weather, and the key snaps. The piece comes out the same way; the bigger question is the replacement key.

If the broken key had a chip or a remote, the new one has to be programmed to your car, or it will unlock the door but won't start the engine. We cut and program replacement keys, and if that was your only key, it's a good moment to make a second: see spare car keys. Keys locked inside too? See car lockout help.

Keys can also break off in the ignition, which is its own job (we handle extraction and ignition repair there too), and the same rule applies: don't force it.

Mailboxes. Mailbox keys are thin and break easily, especially in locks exposed to rain and salt air. A mailbox lock at your home is yours to repair or replace. On a cluster mailbox, the lock may belong to the HOA, the property manager or the Postal Service, so check with them first; we may need their sign-off.

Padlocks. On an inexpensive padlock, replacing the lock is often simpler than extracting the key. On a keyed-alike set, such as gate, shed, dock or boathouse padlocks that all take one key, extracting the piece and cutting a new key keeps the set intact. Padlocks near the water corrode, and seized padlocks snap keys.

Businesses. A key sheared off in the storefront door at opening time is a lockout with staff waiting. We extract it, get you in and cut a new key; file cabinet, desk and mailbox keys can often be cut by code. See commercial locksmith services.

Often, yes. With both halves, a locksmith can usually line them up and cut a matching key. If the original was worn, a fresh key cut to the lock's original specification beats a copy, which would reproduce the wear. For cars, the key code can be looked up by VIN with proof the vehicle is yours, and a chip key is then programmed to the car.

• A new key only: the lock turns smoothly once the piece is out, and the key wasn't lost or copied. Often, that's all it takes.
• Repair or adjustment: the cylinder is stiff, gritty or corroded, or the door needs adjusting so the bolt stops dragging.
• Rekey: you're not sure who else has copies; see our guide to rekeying vs. replacing locks.
• Replace: the lock was damaged when the key broke or by earlier forcing, or it's simply worn out.